PHAM TUAN: Southeast Asia’s First Man in Space

The great Phạm Tuân deserves perennial recognition. And this is BISEAN’s contribution to continuously appreciate the Heroes of Our Region.

This amazing dude will be forever written in our history --
Vietnam’s pride, Southeast Asia’s honor and Asia’s first man in space.

Phạm Tuân was born in Quoc Tuan, Vietnam. He joined the Vietnam People's Air Force in 1965 and actually fought in live air-combat against America’s bests (?) in the Vietnam War till 1975. He also holds the distinction of “the only pilot in the World to ever shoot down a B-52 bomber.” *super cool!* -- although America diligently denied this. *Yeah, right. They even denied they lost the war! Haha!*

After he became a Major General and a research engineer for the USSR-Vietnam Space Program, he was selected (with another Soviet cosmonaut) to be sent on a space mission on board Soyuz37 on 23 July 1980 at Baikonur, USSR.

Our hero was in space for 7 days, 20 hours and 42 minutes and completed 142 orbits before going back to Earth on 31 July 1980. He did a lot of scientific experiments up there.

Looking at his photo (above) in his prime, Mr. Phạm is a very handsome fella indeed! And the photo (right) is, more or less, how he looks like today – still very handsome and dignified. *Mr. Phạm, you are my idol! I’m sure a lot of girls are running after you! Woohoo!”*

Mr. Phạm was married in 1975 and has 2 kids. He is now a Lieutenant General -- Head of the General Department of Defense Industry of the Ministry of Defense, and a member of the Vietnam National Assembly.

The Great Phạm Tuân of Vietnam – Hero of Southeast Asia.

****

Related Article: Malaysia’s First Man in Space

*** Author’s trivia: Pisanu’s 3rd son was named “Marcus Pham Tuan” nicknamed “P.T.” in honor of Mr. Phạm.

THE WORLD’S TALLEST AIR TRAFFIC CONTROL TOWERS

Air Traffic Control (ATC) is very important in aviation. They monitor, direct, set paces and organize the flow of airborne planes mainly to prevent collisions. *yikes!*

People in the Control Room ALSO make sure that the pilots are AWAKE! *waaah!* -- that is, if the Chief Purser is busy serving drinks.

Other functions includes monitoring and queue-ing aircrafts taxiing around the airport grounds, again, to prevent collisions and make sure there's actually a pilot on the dang plane! *lol*

BISEAN is still in the process of listing (and sorting) the heights of ATC towers in the region but most of our airports doesn’t wanna give out infos. *then we’ll get it from somewhere else! ha!*


Two (2) of the World’s Tallest ATC Tower is in Southeast Asia…and we got the top slots!


1. Suvarnabhumi Airport (ท่าอากาศยานสุวรรณภูมิ) ATC Tower at 132.2m (434ft) in Bangkok, Thailand.

It is the world’s tallest free-standing ATC tower.











2. Kuala Lumpur International Airport ATC Tower at 120m (394ft) in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. This used to be the World's tallest before Suvarnabhumi opened in 2006.



3-10. List to be completed soon.

The Suvarnabhumi and KLIA Towers –
Pride of Southeast Asia

****

SE ASIA'S BEST MUSEUM: The Ayala Museum

We found another one of Southeast Asia’s Best Museums. This is actually what me and my friends came here for – check this building out and that special collection on the 4th floor.

We loitered, sashayed, gawked, sashayed some more, had coffee, loitered even longer and spent the whole darn rainy day in and around the “legendary” Ayala Museum. I say “legendary” because since we saw that docu (by Che-che) on satellite telly a few months ago, we were itching (like scabies) to come over and check it out.

The Ayala Museum was established in 1967 by the Ayala Foundation Inc., owned by the prominent Ayala family. One of the most modern in the country. It is an Art & History museum showcasing works of famous Filipino masters and their recent collection has drawn visitors from all over the world *including me, me and me!*.

I am prepared to talk about the Gold of Ancestors Exhibit on the 4th floor all day but my friends say we should also mention about the other exhibits on the floors below – there, I mentioned it already. Can I continue? Good. Now, listen....
">
The Gold of Ancestors exhibit is the most exciting, exhilarating, thrilling (and to some extent, drooling) pieces of evidence that the Philippines has their OWN identity before their colonizers.

A whopping 1,059 gold objects (jewelleries!, accessories, sabre and all things wonderful) is a new permanent exhibition from the 10th-13th century. Its’ importance to RE-WRITING history is like a refreshing ray of sunshine…

A golden “kinnari” (deformed, photo below) suggests that the people of Southern Philippines (Surigao) share similar cultures with Mainland Southeast Asia and Indonesia. I told you! We are brothers! Goddammit. You won’t believe me – why is it all about Spain, Spain, Spain?! Wake up already! Ha! Nothing wrong with being similar to our neighbors.

The centrepiece *drumroll*, is a 4kg-pure-gold belt (an Upativa, a Hindu term for the “Sacred Thread”). You have to check it out to believe it!

No cameras allowed in the museum *I don't even know where other blogs got theirs!*. Ok, I can live with that. But I can assure you…I will never forget the images that I saw in there for a long, long time. The thrill that I felt that a nation, trying so hard to find its identity, has finally found it.

Visit the Ayala Museum – highly recommended and worth the trip. Located on the corner of Makati Ave. and De la Rosa Sts. in Makati City. It’s easy to find amidst the Ayala Center shopping mecca. Open between 9am-6pm [Tue-Fri] 10am-7pm [Weekends] Closed on Mondays. Admission fee is Php450 (300Baht, US$10, 30 Ringgit) for foreigners. They also got a fantastic coffee shop and the mandatory souvenir shop in the building. Senior citizens (local or foreign) gets a discount!.

The Ayala Museum and its' Gold of Ancestors Exhibit –

Treasures of Southeast Asia.

****

**2nd & 3rd photo courtesy of the Ayala Museum official website.

THE EMERALD BUDDHA พระแก้วมรกต

The Emerald Buddha is one topic I didn’t plan to post on this blog. The topic is “sensitive” and its history is written in different versions. A lot of people don’t know its significance and the controversy it created between a dozen kingdoms and countries throughout its 2,000 year history.

This goes to show how fragile our region actually is. Ancient animosities can still arise and if we are not prepared to open our minds and compromise, everything we worked for would crumble down in shambles.

How can I present the Emerald Buddha as objective as I can? Perhaps I can account its 2,000 year journey to its present home – Thailand… but it would be too long and I would write it a way that would serve my country. So, may be not…

Before we get accused of misleading information… the Emerald Buddha is not actually an emerald but a single block of the finest jade. It is a figure of the sitting/meditating Buddha and legend has it that it was carved in India in 46 BC. It is 2ft 2in tall and 1ft 7in across the lap.

The Emerald Buddha’s present home is Thailand -- Where it is housed in an impressive temple (Wat Phra Kaew) within the walls of the Grand Palace complex in Bangkok.

It is also interesting to note that the Emerald Buddha is adorned in pure gold and changed 3 times a year. It is dressed in 3 different sets of gold clothing corresponding to Thailand’s seasons – hot, rainy and cold seasons (March, July and November).

ONLY the King of Thailand can change the gold clothing in a very solemn ceremony. The 2 other gold clothing which are not in use at any given time are displayed on the Pavilion of Regalia nearby.

The Emerald Buddha is the palladium of modern Siam. It is the most revered and treasured possession of the Kingdom. See it on your next visit to Thailand and feel its inexplicable power over those who revere it or over those who merely stare.

The Emerald Buddha can be found within the Grand Palace in Bangkok.

The Emerald Buddha - Southeast Asia's Most Priceless Treasure.

****

OUR TREASURES: The Plain Of Jars

One of the most mysterious and curious places in Southeast Asia is the Plain of Jars in Xieng Khuang Province in Laos. These are not just ordinary pots and broken vases but huge, ancient, creepy stone jars (as tall as 5 ft each) scattered over an area of 500 sq miles!

The kicker is… nobody knows where it came from or who made ‘em and nobody even knows their purpose. The Plain of Jars is Southeast Asia's version of the Easter Island and scientists said that these jars are more than 2,000 years old *Collectors of antiquity…stay out!*

I can’t help but theorize what these ancient jars are for…could these urns were used by ancient Laotians to store ashes of their dead relatives? Yeah, I could be right. But there are no historical records that they burn their deads in those times, is there?

Could they have used it to collect rain for drinking water? Or to make lots of fermented fish (like Trasi, Belacan, Prahok or Bagoong)? Could these be ancient prison cells for bad-ass citizens? The possibilities are endless!

My father used to say that there are things better left alone – unexplained, undisturbed, undiscovered. This “exclusivity” propel these curious wonders into eternity and the Plain of Jars of Laos is no exception.

This ancient site will soon be a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And BISEAN recommends a visit to this ancient, puzzling destination. Include it on your next visit to Laos. It is only a few hours away from Vientiane and make sure you book the trip through your hotel concierge only.

Hmm…what are these ancient jars for?

I’d like to know what you think.


****

OUR TREASURES: The Las Piñas Bamboo Organ

45 minutes drive south of Manila is Las Piñas City – where the world’s only organ made almost entirely of bamboo is located.

The Bamboo Organ isn’t just something with a whimsical name – it’s a real musical instrument that can actually be played! The annual International Bamboo Organ Festival is held here every February. International organists and musicians come to the Philippines to get the chance to play (or at least hear) the world’s only Bamboo organ.

It was built by a Spanish priest in 1816 and finished it 8 years later. The whole gigantic instrument was entirely made of bamboo except the tubes were replaced by metal after it was shipped to Germany for restoration in the 70s.

The Bamboo Organ can be found inside St. Joseph Parish Church in the center of Las Piñas City. The church itself is equally historic. It was first built in the 1700s, destroyed by an earthquake, and was rebuilt again in 1819. Its beautiful baroque-style architecture gives the place an almost melancholic feel to it. The sound of the Bamboo organ liven everything up, as we were told.

Bamboo represents the sturdy but flexible character of our peoples. It’s power, strength and versatility embodies our region like no other.

The Bamboo Organ of the Philippines – a Southeast Asian treasure.

*I guess the “Can I play your organ?” joke won’t crack anyone here, eh?*

****

L’INTRAMUROS: La ville murée de Manille

Intramuros à Manille indique l'histoire où au commencement c'était une culture qui a été imposée mais plus tard on peut voir une amalgamation. Les conquérants espagnols ont régné Philippines pendant presque trois siècles et on trouve un mélange unique des cultures est et occidentales. Ici seulement on a permis aux les Espagnols et les métis de vivre à l'intérieur des murs de ville. Intramuros est la ville murée fondée en 1571.

Intramuros était le centre de la règle coloniale espagnole et a laissé beaucoup d'architectures qui sont espagnoles dans le modèle. La classe régnante espagnole a vécu à l'intérieur de la ville. Au 17ème siècle l'Intramuros a consisté autour deux mille habitants. Au 18ème siècle la croissance croissante de la ville a suspendu la croissance de l'Intramuros, car maintenant Manille est beaucoup plus qu'Intramuros.

L'histoire de Manille indique qu'après... l'Espagnol les Américains ont régné pendant presque quatre décennies. Le morceau le plus ancien de construction qui appartient aux Américains est fort Santiago.

Intramuros a été détruit dans la deuxième guerre mondiale quand l'Américain et les forces japonaises se sont combattues. En conséquence seulement quelques bâtiments sont restés comme l'église de San Agustin et la monastère augustine. Mais depuis lors la ville a été reconstituée et des structures comme la cathédrale de Manille et les deux des sept portes de ville (Puerta Isabel II et Puerta Real) ont été reconstitués. On constate également que les feux et les tremblements de terre avaient nivelé cette ville murée dans le passé mais maintes et maintes fois les élévations de cette ville dessus à ses pieds encore.

Intramuros à Manille est un des plus fine dans l'architecture. On ici peut trouver vieux bâtiments, bureaux, églises et forts qui ont une histoire de ses propres. Selon une certaine chaque pierre, le sol, chaque rue et le vieux bâtiment a sa propre histoire à le dire. Dans votre visite à l'Intramuros à Manille vous pourriez être témoin de beaucoup d'attractions comme le fort Santiago, église de San Agustin êtes certains d'entre elles. En général l'histoire des Philippines est associée à l'Intramuros la région de Manille en tant que ce secteur a été un emplacement où la traçage politique, la jalousie ecclésiastique, et en même temps la splendeur et la cérémonie officielles sont allées de pair.

****

Articles précédents en français:

*Le Borobudur
*Le temple de la fertilite
*Ville de Louang Prabang
*Ville historique de Sukhothai
*Gunung Mulu: Le Grotte du Dragon Noir

---Pisanu

You liked this post? - Subscribe to BISEAN

OUR TREASURES: The Banaue Rice Terraces

The Banaue Rice Terraces in the Philippines is one big majestic spectacle. Paddies carved on steep mountains 1,500m above sea level. It is said that it is so huge, that when each paddy is connected from end to end – can circumnavigate the Earth halfway!

The Ifugao people live here – the highlanders of Luzon Island. This is the land of their ancestors and this rice terraces is the center of their lives and society for thousands of years. More than 2,000 years ago, Banaue was carved into the mountains using bare hands and a few tools! *If you don’t call that ingenuity, you are either a dog or a big fat lizard.*

Rice terraces are quite common in Asia. Other famous ones are the Tigalalang in Indonesia, Chiangmai in Thailand and Sapa in Vietnam. Even the Yamagata in Japan or Longsheng in China…but they are not as grand and as ancient as the Banaue.

The Banaue Terraces is actually a part of the much larger group Rice Terraces of the Philippine Cordillera which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. Other parts of this collective group were carved 6,000 years ago! *When Nafertiti has just invented the eye shadow*

I’ve seen this place once back in 2000 and I promptly finished 3 film cartridges the instant I saw it! Banaue is not easy to reach and you have to find the best spot to get better view. Philippine tourism is not so organized – it’s the group of little private tour operators that would take you there.

That was when I was 21 doing my grand ASEAN sweeping tour for the first time. I had to dismiss my tour guide because he is f*cking up the trip. He is obviously unskilled and disorganized. I asked him to find me a nice local family to lodge me for the night and he can go home and leave me alone -- he did. And the rest is an adventure of a lifetime.

“Intaku manlo-loglog.
Intaku manlo-loglog.
Dangdang ay, sidang ilay
Insinali dumaay.”

“Intaku mansasakdu,
Intaku mansasakdu.
Dang dang ay, siding ilay
Insinali dumaay....."

I can go on and on and on singing this song those nice Igorot families taught me. It’s a song about, what else? – rice harvesting. I ended up staying with them for 3 weeks in the mountains of Cordillera. No hotel, no fancy service, no toilet! I learned their custom, their folklores, their songs and dance! *panting* OH! OH! If I can show you how to dance their dance in loin cloth – you all gonna love me! It's a dance imitating a flying eagle on a hunt.

The Philippines is one of the few countries close to my heart. I am eager, I am so interested to learn their culture – that in a span of 2 years --I lived in their magacities, I lived among the Tausugs, the Samals and the Badjaos in the south, the Ifugaos and the Igorots in the north – an adventure not all Filipinos would have the chance to do in their lifetime.

There is something magical about this place.


****

Subscribe to BISEAN

OUR TREASURES: The Petronas Twin Towers

Nothing in our region can exceed Malaysia’s statement in the turn of the new millennium than the Petronas Twin Towers. The unveiling of the (then) tallest buildings in the world in 1998 is a screaming declaration that “Malaysia has arrived.”

Both towers soar a staggering 1,482.6 ft from ground level to the top of the spire. Both have 88 floors, with a combined total floor space of 4.25 million sq. ft. and 78 lifts. They also hold the record of the world’s deepest foundation at 120 meters. The Skyway, the 192 ft. long bridge connecting the two towers on the 41st and 42nd floors is the world’s highest 2-storey bridge. It can be really dizzying up there!

The Petronas Towers got its name from Malaysia’s national oil company, Petronas – the company who thought of this project. The building design was awarded to the Norwegian Dawid Mauno and was built by Italian architect Cesar Pelli. The Islamic inspired design made the Petronas Towers the most distinctive buildings in Southeast Asia and a token that Malaysia (SE Asia’s 3rd richest country) has joined the big league.

You wanna go up there? A tour up the Skybridge is FREE. It’s open between 9.00am – 5.00pm, Tuesdays to Sundays. It’s closed on a Monday unless it’s a public holiday. Tickets are issued on a first-come-first-serve basis so, be at the main lobby early (some tourists come before 7am!) Tickets has to be used within the day or it will be forfeited meaning, no advanced booking. The tour is guided so don’t try to be a smart ass.

A very useful tip. Just in case; bring tissues, a small plastic bag, air freshener or any citrus fruit (for smelling) -- the bridge can be shaky on windy days and I have seen tourists puking heaven and hell while on the bridge! *Eeeewww!*

How to get there. The KLCC Complex, where the towers are located, is easily reachable from any direction of Kuala Lumpur. If you are within the Golden Triangle -- Kuala Lumpur’s main business district (areas like Bukit Bintang, Jln P. Ramlee, Ampang Road, etc.), it’s just a few minutes walk --depending you are a turtle, a rabbit or a cheetah. If you are using the LRT Putra Line (not the Monorail), get off KLCC Station -- which is underground and directly connected to the building complex. We wouldn’t recommend a taxi cab if you don’t wanna be ripped off.

The Petronas Twin Towers. Southeast Asia’s soaring pride and treasures.


****

OUR TREASURES: Halong Bay

If there’s going to be a phrase to best describe the spectacular Halong Bay; it has to be “A living art painted in watercolor.” I haven’t seen anything like this in the whole world! *me, acting as if this is the first time I saw it* 1,600 islands and islets rises majestically from the sea, rich jungle vegetations on top, lots of formations to leave a lot to the imagination.

This is one of the few places in the world where I can say “Now I’ve seen it – this is a good day to die.” If I’m gonna be myself here, I’m going to describe it as: *gasp* “Whadda?” in complete awe, lost for words, goose bumps and all --nothing can describe this place.

Legend has it that long ago, the gods sent a family of dragons to help the Vietnamese defend their land from Chinese invaders. When the dragons landed on what is now Halong Bay (translated as “Bay of Descending Dragons), they spit out jades and jewels. The jades and jewels turned into islands and islets to form a natural barrier to keep the invaders out. The land they kept safe is believed to be the ancient cradle of the Vietnamese people. *Hmm… it pays to have dragon friends eh? Awesome!*

Our guide further said that one of the dragons still lives around the bay up to this day. *left eyebrow arching slowly*. I think he’s just pulling my leg because I look like a dude who would believe anything and will actually wait for that damn dragon to appear – yeah that’s me, thank you very much – but not today, not today dammit! So shut up.



But it’s not actually pure legend at all! (well, at least the invaders part) History shows that the Vietnamese actually stopped invaders through Halong Bay – the Chinese on 3 occasions, and the Mongols, which the Vietnamese stopped from further sailing to their shores.

Halong Bay was declared a World Heritage Site on 17 December 1994.

From Saigon, we flew to Hanoi *on an airplane of course, we haven't had much dragon friends yet*. Halong Bay is around 3 hours and 30 minutes drive from Hanoi. You can choose to go kayaking on the bay and make sure you got a guide or you’ll be lost in this gigantic watery maze. If you’re a bigtime cheapskate, you can just admire the view from the shore OR if you looooove yourself and not on a budget, rent a junk and cruise for 2-3 days. Nothing can compare to a morning sunrise at Halong Bay --should I mention the sunset too? Ha! *and the darn dragon, if we're lucky!*

The water is forever calm, the air is forever fresh, the limestone pillars forever majestic and Vietnam is forever awesome! You have to visit this place –don’t die until you did. Take that!

****

OUR TREASURES: Saigon | Ho Chi Minh City

GOOOOD MORNING VIETNAAAAAAAMM! Whew! I always wanted to do that since I saw Robin William’s movie a long time ago. And I did it with all my naked glory on the window of my hotel room to Morgan’s horror. LOL. Our room was too high anyway, so I’m quite sure my naked pics won’t be circulating on the net (just yet! ha!).

Anyway -- Morgan, yes Morgan, I took him with me here to Saigon. He’s Vietnamese-French anyway so I thought that I could USE him for company. This is when friends come in handy. *horns pushing through my forehead at the rate of 2 cm per second*

We took the 1:00 PM flight of Vietnam Airlines (Flight 850) from Bangkok to Saigon. They fly to here everyday, by the way. Arrived at Tan Son Nhat International Airport at 2:30 PM Saigon time. The flight was ok and nothing out of the ordinary but I have to mention the in-flight meal! Simply fantastic! And the flight crew are equally yummy! (or at least 'looks' yummy). If you haven’t tried flying Vietnam Airlines, you should on your next trip.

The last time I was here was like a year ago when I wanted to try their casinos but was disappointed. Their casinos in those days consist of a couple of slot machines and a few card tables – I hope it’s better now. This is one of the main reason I came here aside from my Nobel prize worthy humanitarian outreach (if I have time). LOL

I keep calling it Saigon although they changed the name of the city to Ho Chi Minh since 1975. Hey, Saigon sounds more sophisticated and global, don’t you think? So Saigon, it is -- and don't argue! BTW, not so many of us know -- Saigon is NOT the capital of Vietnam.

Saigon, located in the South of Vietnam, is celebrating its 309th year of establishment this year. Saigon is the largest city, the economic capital, the cultural trendsetter and the heart and soul of this great country. Women dressed in traditional Ao Dai presents a wonderful contrast to the city’s modern streets. Men and women on bicycles is an astonishing moving irony pedaling their way alongside modern cars. But these, sad to say, is fast deminishing -- Ao Dai's are replaced by t-shirts and jeans and bicycles are now replaced by motorcycles.*sigh* And NO, these 2 ladies on the motorbike wasn't around yet when Saigon was first founded, ok? Ha!

The French colonization from 1859 to 1930 made the word “Saigon” synonymous to an Oriental global city in those times alongside Shanghai, Manila and Singapore. Foreigners in those days fancied living in these cosmopolitan cities in the Far East. It all ended when the communists took control in the 30’s, followed by the Japanese invasion of the 40’s through the wars of the 60’s and 70’s and the re-occupation of the French. But today, Vietnam has the fastest growing economy in Southeast Asia and the 2nd in the whole of East Asia next to China.

Vietnam is still a communist state – it may be out of style nowadays – but hey! They are doing a great job compared to its “democratic” neighbors with nothing much to do but protest on the streets all day instead of working together for the benefit of the country. The Vietnamese seems to be too busy to waste their time like that.

It’s a 20-minute drive from Tan Son Nhat International Airport to New World Hotel Saigon where we are staying. And with that 20-minute ride, I saw modern buildings, busy roads, malls, busy but smiling people -- how this country is holding on and moving up! My hats off to Vietnam, it's leaders and it's people. Impressive, very impressive indeed.


****

--Pisanu in Saigon